FAQs

I thought it would be a good idea to try to address some frequently asked questions on my website.  My answers are based on my experiences, my thoughts, and my way of seeing things – they are not absolute answers and they are not the only way to do things.  I did this to try to be helpful to others, but also to give me a chance to collect my thoughts and to see how well I really know what I think I know.  There is an old saying, “ The only way to find out if you really know something is to teach it to someone else,” and I strongly believe in that.

This is a work in progress – sections may be updated, added, deleted, etc.  If you have more questions you would like to see addressed, please let me know by leaving a comment or emailing me.

For more information, check out the Wiki on SRP.

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Which razor would make a good starter razor?

Width – In my opinion, the easiest widths to shave with are 5/8, 11/16, 6/8, and 13/16.  There are a few reasons these sizes are optimal.  These sizes are wide enough to allow you to easily see the angle of the blade to your face, and maintaining a proper shaving angle is essential.  These sizes are easy to maneuver around your face and reach all areas you will want to shave.  These sizes are very common; the rules of supply and demand therefore dictate that razors in this size range will be affordable.

Point – The easiest types of points to start with are the “rounded” ones.  These include round points, muted square points, rounded or muted oblique points, muted barber’s notches, etc.  The reason these points are easier to start with is that the rounding helps reduce the chances you will cut yourself with the point.  You certainly can start with a square or spike point, but you’ll have to be more careful of where the point of the razor is.

Grind – As I see it, there are two schools of thought when it comes to grind

-Tough Love: This would be starting wit a full hollow razor.  A full hollow grind will flex while you are shaving; this makes it less forgiving of a poor shaving technique.  As a result, if your technique is poor your shaves will be poor too.  This will force you to improve your technique rapidly, or else you will suffer poor shaves.  The downside is that your shaves will probably be poor to start.

-Coddling: This would be starting with a half hollow or “heavier” razor.  The heavy grinds do not flex while you are shaving.  They also have a greater inertia, so they feel like they “plow through” stubble.  As a result, it is easier to get a good shave from a heavy grind, even if your technique is not great.  The potential downside, however, is that you will not be forced to improve your shave technique, so your development may stagnate.

Steel – I really don’t think the type of steel matters, so long as you choose a quality razor.

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What do I need to maintain my razor?

Every shaver will need a good leather strop; stropping your razor before every shave will give you smoother shaves and prolong the life of your edge.  This is the bare minimum for maintenance.  Adding in another type of strop, such as a canvas/linen/nylon/hard wool felt strop or a canvas/linen/nylon/hard wool felt strop with paste (chromium oxide, cerium oxide, .5 diamond spray, etc) will allow you to touch up your razor as well.  While pastes are very effective, they do round the bevel a bit.  This is not problematic on a short timescale, but after a while, just a pasted strop will no longer bring back the shaving edge and you will need to have the razor honed.

The next step would be a touchup or finishing hone; such a hone will allow you to take a razor that is beginning to pull during shaving and bring the edge back to give you great shaves.  So long as you do not damage the edge of your razor, you will never need anything more than a touchup or finishing hone.  There are lots of options, and any will work.  Some common choices include: barber hones, a high grit synthetic (Naniwa and Shaptons seem to be the most popular), a natural finishing hone (coticule, Thuringian/Escher, Japanese natural, etc).  Describing all of these options would take too much time at this point, but there is lots of information about each option.  Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference.

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How does stainless steel compare to carbon steel?

In my opinion, the differences between stainless and carbon steel are minimal.  During the honing process, a stainless and carbon steel razor can be treated exactly the same, and both will yield great shaving edges.  The difference is what it takes to get the very best edge, and there stainless is a little different from carbon.

During shaving, other factors besides the steel (such as the grind) play a larger role in how the razor feels, but stainless razors seem to be a bit more stiff.

Whether your razor is stainless or carbon steel, you should still pay the utmost attention to caring for your razor.  A stainless razor is less likely to oxidize, but it will still oxidize.

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What are different steels from different countries like?

The main difference between Sheffield, German, American, and Swedish steel that I notice is the hardness.  All are within the range of hardness that is suitable for razors, but in that range, Sheffield tends to be softer and German, American, and Swedish tend to be harder.  The main exception to this rule is some Frederick Reynolds razors, which have very hard steel.

I find that softer steel feels a bit more forgiving to shave with, regardless of the grind.  Harder steel can sometimes feel a bit more aggressive, so it requires a lighter touch to get the best shave.  But harder steel can also reduce the flex of a razor, so it can make the hollow grinds easier to shave with.

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My budget is $XX; what razor should I buy?

This question seems to come up a lot, but there is no good answer.  For new guys, one can suggest a particular size, point, and grind, but ultimately, buying a razor is entirely personal preference.  I think it is important to buy razors that appeal to you visually, razors that you think feel good in your hand, and razors that feel good on your face.  Visual appeal is easy to figure out, but learning what feels good in your hand and on your face requires trial and error.  You can always ask someone what a given razor feels like, but such descriptions will be subjective and biased, and they will be presented in relative terms that may not be the same for everyone (i.e. smooth, balanced, meaty, etc).

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What is a good set of hones for a new honer?

Buying hones is largely personal preference, but I think there are a few generalities.  The more versatile a hone is, the more difficult it is to use; the more targeted a hones purpose is, the easier it is to use.  I think the best example of this is the coticule.  Coticules can be used either very generally – set the bevel and go all the way to shave ready – or very specifically – as a finisher or touchup hone.  Using a coticule to set a bevel and get all the way to shave ready is much more difficult, because the hone is serving several functions.  First it is a bevel setter, then it is a sharpener, then it is a polisher, and then it is a finishing hone.  At each stage, the hone must be used in a particular way and the transitions between each stage must be made at the correct time.  Furthermore, natural stones are all unique, so no two coticules are the same.  Each one will behave differently during each stage, and each will need to be used differently during each stage.  You have to be able to figure out what the stone is doing and then know how to apply that stones characteristics to the task at hand.  One error anywhere in the process can yield a razor which is not shave ready, and if this happens, you must be able to diagnose and correct the problem.

By comparison, using a coticule to touchup or finish a razor is quite easy.  Since the task at hand is very focused, a number of variables are eliminated and the variations among coticules play a minimal role.  Indeed, coticules can be used in the exact same method as any touchup hone.

Synthetic hones are much easier to learn on, because each of the various grits serves a specific purpose, so a hone of a given grit is always used in the same way.  The very coarse grit hones are for restoration and repairs, a 1k hone will set the bevel, medium grit hones sharpen and begin to polish the edge, and the high grit hones finish polishing and allow you to touch up your razors.

When it comes to choosing a brand of synthetic grit hones, the decision is largely personal preference.  Norton, Naniwa, and Shapton seem to be the most popular choices, and also the choices that the most users have the most experience with, so there tends to be more help available with them.

Regardless of what hone you choose, synthetic or natural, it is important that you take the time to learn how to use your hones.  Assuming you have selected a quality hone, all paths will lead to sharp, if you are willing to put in the time and effort to learn how to get there.

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What is the best way to learn to hone?

In my opinion, it is best to learn how to hone from the end to the beginning.  The finishing/touchup stage is the easiest to learn, and bevel setting is the most difficult.

-Touchups and finishing: Touching up a razor is something that every straight shaver should learn how to do, because, sooner or later, all razors will dull as a result of normal use.  When a razor begins to pull, choose your finishing/touchup hone, and do 10 to 15 passes, then strop and shave.  If you are happy with how the razor shaves, you were successful and you are finished.  If you are not happy with how the razor shaves, try 10 to 15 more passes, then strop and shave.  Repeat as necessary.

If you cannot get your razor to shave as you would like using the above method, it may be time to drop down one hone in the progression of stones.  The next step would be to try a hone in the 8k range.  On the 8k hone, do 10 to 15 passes.  Then do 10 to 15 passes on your finisher.  Then strop and shave.  Again, repeat as necessary.  Unless you have damaged your razor in some way, coarser hones should not be necessary.

Alternately, you can learn to finish a razor with the help of an experienced honer.  If you send your razors out to be honed or buy shave ready razors, try asking for a razor that has only been brought up to the 8k level.  When the razor arrives, strop and shave.  Note how the razor feels when you shave.  Before your next shave, try 10 to 15 passes on your finishing hone, then strop and shave.  Note the differences in how the razor shaves.  If you are satisfied, you are done.  If not, try 10 to 15 passes on your finisher, strop and shave.  Repeat as necessary.

-Sharpening and polishing:  Once you are satisfied that you can touchup and finish a razor, the next easiest step is to learn to do the mid range sharpening and polishing.  Here, it is easiest to have the help of an experienced honer, because you will want to have razors available which have their bevel set but have not been honed beyond that point.  Most people do not sell razors that only have their bevels set, and most people do not offer just bevel setting services; but don’t be afraid to ask.  Personally, I think it is important to learn on razors that already have their bevels set, so I do offer bevel setting services.

After a bevel is set, the first stage is to use a hone in the 3k to 5k range, and here again, the process will involve a bit of trial and error  BEFORE you do anything else, try shaving some arm hairs and try a thumbpad test on the razor.  These tests will give you a baseline so you’ll know where you are starting.  These tests will also give you a frame of reference when you are ready to learn to set bevels on your own.

Once you have done an armhair test and a thumbpad test, it’s time to start honing.  Do 15 to 20 passes on your 3-5k hone, then repeat the armhair test.  You should notice an improvement in how easily the hair is cut – it should require less pressure against your skin and there should be less resistance when you cut.  Do 15 to 20 passes on your hone again, and repeat the arm hair test.  If there is improvement again, repeat the 15 to 20 passes and test.  Once you no longer have any improvement, stop.  At this point, you will have gotten the most you can out of your hone.  Do the armhair test again, and try to remember what it looks, feels, and sounds like; do the thumbpad test, and try to remember what it feels like.  The results from these tests will serve as benchmarks for the future, and will reduce the amount of trial and error you need to do next time.

Now, it is time to move up to the next hone, which would be in the 8k range.  On your 8k hone, do 10 to 15 strokes, and then try an arm hair test.  Do 10 to 15 strokes again, and try the armhair test again.  As on the 3-5k hone, keep repeating this process until you are not getting any further improvements.  You should be looking for the razor to cut with minimal pressure against your skin and minimal resistance.  The razor should make minimal noise when cutting, and the hairs should be cut as soon as you touch them with the razor.  When you reach this point, remember what the results of your armhair test are; do a thumbpad test and remember what the edge feels like.  These will be your benchmarks for the future.

BEFORE you go to your finishing hone, strop your razor and have a test shave.  You should get a very smooth, very nice shave with no pulling at all.  This is the ultimate test of the 8k hone.  If you cannot get a smooth, comfortable shave, you have not gotten all you can out of your 8k hone, and going to a finishing hone will not help you.  You should not move up to your finishing hone if you cannot get a great shave off your 8k hone.  If the shave is not great, go back to repeat the 10-15 stroke/armhair test process on the 8k.  When there is no further improvement, strop and shave again.  Keep at it until you get a great shave.

-Bevel setting: Learning to set bevels is the most difficult part of honing.  This is not because the process is inherently difficult; it is because every ebay/antique store/estate sale razor will be in a different state of “dullness,” and that is a significant variable.  By comparison, all razors that have just had their bevels set are in a rather narrow range; all razors that just need a touchup are in a rather narrow range.

Setting bevels requires you to figure out how dull the razor is, determine if the razor has any “quirks” you’ll have to address, have the confidence to keep removing steel until you get the bevel set, recognize when the bevel is set and stop, and maintain even strokes to avoid putting uneven wear on the razor.  That is a lot to think about!  Fortunately, if you have already learned the sharpening/polishing and finishing/touchup stages above, you’ll be at an advantage.  Those stages will have already taught you to maintain an even stroke and to recognize when a bevel is set; they will also help you build confidence in your honing abilities.  All that will be left is to figure out how dull the razor is and what “quirks” you may have to address.

There are a few things you can do to make these last two areas easier.  Try to learn on razors that don’t have any chips, razors that sit flat on hones, razors with minimal and even wear, razors with half to full hollow grinds, and, most importantly, inexpensive razors that you wouldn’t really mind ruining – just in case.  But whatever you do, make sure you are using a quality razor – razors on the do not buy list may never actually take a bevel, so you’ll never know if you are doing the right thing or not.

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How can I use the Magic Marker Test?

The Magic Marker Test (MMT) is a test that shows you what parts of your razor contacts the hone, which can provide further insight into the state of the edge.  This test is best used when setting your bevel, though it can be used on higher grit hones to ensure full edge contact with the hone as well.

In order to perform the Magic Marker Test, simply color each side of the razor at and just above the edge with a marker.  It is important to use a marker that won’t come right off when it contacts water, and you must let the marker dry before you begin honing.  When the marker has dried, perform 5 – 10 strokes on your hone.  Dry the razor (without removing the marker) and inspect the edge and bevel.  Any area where the marker has been removed has contacted the hone; anywhere with marker has not contacted the hone.

If you find that no marker has been removed from the heal or the toe, it means you are not contacting the hone with that area of the razor, and you may need to utilize a rolling or partially rolling stroke.  If the marker has not been removed from the center of the razor on only one side, your razor may be warped or twisted, and you may need to utilize an “off the edge” type stroke.  If the marker is removed above the edge but not right at the edge, the bevel does not run all the way to the edge and you need to hone more.

The MMT can be repeated as many times as you like at any stage during your honing without damaging the edge.  All you “lose” by doing it is the time it takes.  Any extra marker that remains on the razor can be removed with lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol.

Please note – The MMT IS NOT a test to see if you have set the bevel.  It is possible to fully remove the marker all the way to the edge on both sides of the razor without having a properly set bevel.  This can occur, for example, if the bevels run all the way to the edge but do not meet at a plane (such as like this \_/).  In this case, more honing is needed.

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How can I use the Thumb Nail Test?

The thumb nail test (TNT) is a test to see if the bevel has been properly set.  It should only be used while setting the bevel.  The TNT WILL SLIGHTLY BLUNT the edge, so, after a successful TNT, you should do 10 – 15 finishing strokes on your 1k before continuing with your honing.

In order to do the TNT, wet your thumbnail (I simply lick mine) and place the edge of your razor onto your thumbnail.  Using just the weight of the blade, draw the edge along your thumbnail from the heel to the toe.  If your razor passes the TNT, it should give a uniform, smooth sensation that the edge is digging into your nail.  (A digging in sensation that is not smooth is a likely sign of small chips or other irregularities in the edge.)  Figuring out exactly what this feels like is something that will take some practice, but it is rather easy to identify.  If your razor fails the TNT, the edge will slide along your nail with no resistance.

Often, the bevel sets at some areas of the razor before others.  Using the TNT, you can determine if this is the case and, when possible, adjust your stroke to focus on the areas that need more work without removing excessive amounts of metal from areas where the bevel is already set.  This is especially common on razors with smiles or uneven wear.

When the entire length of your edge passes TNT and after you have corrected the resulting TNT damage with 10-15 strokes, I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND doing both a Thumb Pad Test and an Arm Hair Test.  Each of these can be used as a test to see if the bevel is set, but neither has signs that are as easy to read as the TNT.  Therefore, doing a TPT or AHT after the TNT will show you what to look for with the TPT and AHT.  If you can remember the results of each, you can used those as benchmarks in the future.

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How can I use the Thumb Pad Test?

The thumb pad test is carried out by lightly touching the edge of your razor with your thumb pad.  This IS NOT like thumbing a knife; touching a razor’s edge in that manner will damage the edge of the razor and, more than likely, will require resetting the bevel.  It seems the best way to do the TPT is to hold your dominate hand with your palm up and fingers facing the center of your body.  Place the spine of the razor along your fingers so that the edge is facing up and perpendicular to your body.  With the thumb of the same hand, lightly touch the edge of the razor.

There are some variations on precisely how the TPT is carried out.  Some wet their thumb pad, others do not.  Some apply a slight force parallel to the razor’s edge; others apply a slight force perpendicular to the razor’s edge.  Any variation is acceptable, so long as it works for you.  But be EXTREMELY CAREFUL that you do not cut your thumb while doing this test.  It can happen more easily than you may thing.

When done properly, the TPT can be done at any stage in the razor’s honing, but at each stage you are looking for a different sensation.  As such, this is a test that must be calibrated.  The bevel TPT can be calibrated by using the TNT, as described above.  The TPT for other hones can be calibrated with the Arm Hair Test, as described in the “learning to hone” section.  You can also use a pre-sharpened double or single edge blade or a razor known to be shave ready.

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How can I use the Arm Hair Test?

The arm hair test is done by shaving a single or a few arm hairs in order to assess how sharp the edge is.  This can be done at any stage in honing with no ill effects on the razor’s edge.  The results that signify passing the test vary off each hone, so this test must be calibrated.  Most people can shave arm hair off the 1k, so it can often be used as a bevel test, but this is not the case for everyone.

The arm hair test has a lot of variables that must be kept in mind.  These include the hair you are shaving (for many people, the hair varies based on where on your arm you are shaving), the angle you shave at, the amount of pressure required to shave, and the resistance to shaving.  As you calibrate this test (as mentioned it the “learning to hone section”), you must be mindful of all these variables.  For example, the resistance to shaving should be less and less as the hone you are testing off gets finer and finer.

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How can I use the Hanging Hair Test?

The Hanging Hair Test or HHT seems to be the most commonly applied AND the most commonly MISapplied test of a razor’s edge.  As with the AHT, it must be calibrated and it contains a lot of variables.  This test needs to be applied with consistent methods, and the results must be interpreted.  This does not mean that it is a bad test, it just is not as straightforward as slicing a hair.

For example, a common belief is that it requires a “sharper” edge to cut a hair in half than it does to cut through the hair.  For a razor, this IS NOT the case.  A duller edge will partially, but not fully, cut the hair, which will cut the hair in half.  If the edge were “sharper,” it would cut cleanly through the hair under the exact same testing conditions.

Sometimes a razor finished off a lower grit hone will develop teeth, which can grab and cut through a hanging hair.  When taken to a finer hone, these teeth can be polished and removed, which will cause a fail on the HHT.  This is not a sign that the edge has become duller, though it does signify a change to the edge.

Passing the HHT does not necessarily mean that a razor is shave ready, and failing a HHT does not necessarily mean that the razor is not shave ready.